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LoadingA Bhutanese cultural tradition
For a country its size, Bhutan is remarkably multilingual — the legacy of a mountain land where deep valleys, divided by high passes, each kept their own tongue across the centuries. Over this patchwork sits Dzongkha, 'the language of the dzong', the national language; alongside it run the eastern, central, and highland languages of the valleys, each a mother tongue to its own region. The classical scriptural language, Choekey, carries the Buddhist canon, and English — the medium of every school since the 1960s — is the language a visitor will use from arrival to departure.
language
Short answer
Dzongkha — 'the language of the dzong' — is Bhutan's national language, a Tibetic tongue written in the Tibetan script. Alongside it the country speaks more than a dozen languages: Tshangla in the east, the central East Bodish languages (Bumthangkha, Khengkha and their kin), and Lhotshamkha — a form of Nepali — in the southern foothills. Choekey, classical Tibetan, is the language of Buddhist scripture; English is the medium of education and the language a visitor uses throughout. A few Dzongkha courtesies — Kuzu zangpo la for hello, Kadrin chhe la for thank you — are warmly received.
Bhutan's national language is Dzongkha — literally 'the language (kha) of the dzong', the fortress-monasteries from which the country was governed, and the tongue native to the western valleys around Thimphu, Paro, Punakha, Wangdue, and Ha. It belongs to the Tibetic branch of the great Sino-Tibetan family, a cousin of classical and modern Tibetan, and it is written in the Bhutanese form of the Tibetan script. Long the language of administration in the west, Dzongkha was made the national language as the modern state took shape, and it is now taught in every school and promoted by a dedicated commission charged with standardising its spelling and growing its vocabulary for the modern world. A visitor sees it everywhere — on every dzong, every signboard, every banknote — paired with English.
What surprises most visitors is how many languages a country this small contains. The reason is the land itself: Bhutan is a country of deep, separate valleys divided by high passes, and for most of its history each valley was a world to itself, so that the tongue of one need not be understood in the next. The result is a rich patchwork — more than a dozen distinct languages across its valleys, not mere dialects of one another but separate tongues, so that a farmer from the central valleys and an official from the west may share no mother language at all and meet, instead, in Dzongkha or in English. Linguists group them into families — the Tibetic languages of the west and the high north, the distinct East Bodish languages of the centre, and the eastern tongue of Tshangla — while in the southern foothills, where the land falls away towards the plains, the principal language is Lhotshamkha, a Bhutanese form of Nepali. To a traveller the point is simpler and more striking than any family tree: this small kingdom is one of the more linguistically diverse places on earth for its size.
The east of Bhutan — the populous dzongkhags of Trashigang, Mongar, and their neighbours — speaks Tshangla, often called Sharchopkha, 'the language of the easterners'. It is one of the most widely spoken mother tongues in the country, a distinct language rather than a dialect of Dzongkha, and the first tongue of a great many Bhutanese. A visitor travelling east will hear it everywhere, and will notice the guide switching between Tshangla, Dzongkha, and English as easily as the country itself does. The eastern valleys, with their own language, weaving, and rhythm of life, are among the least-visited and most rewarding parts of Bhutan for the traveller willing to go the distance.
The central valleys carry their own family of languages — the East Bodish tongues, distinct from Dzongkha — among them Bumthangkha, the language of the Bumthang valleys; Khengkha of the Kheng region to the south of Trongsa; Kurtoekha of the Kurtoe valley in Lhuentse; and the related tongues of the Mangde and the far east. These are the everyday languages of the central heartland, spoken in the fields and the farmhouses where the great temples stand. Higher still, the seminomadic yak-herding communities keep their own Tibetic tongues — the Brokpa of the Merak and Sakteng valleys in the far east, the Layakha of Laya in the high north — languages of the alpine pastures and the long migrations, as distinct from the valley tongues as the herders' lives are from the farmers'. Each is a small world of its own, and together they make the country's spoken map extraordinarily intricate.
Two further languages run through Bhutanese life. The first is Choekey — classical literary Tibetan, the language of the Buddhist scriptures, the prayers, and the canon, the way Latin was once the language of the Western church. It is not a spoken vernacular but the learned language of the Dharma, mastered by monks across long years of study; the texts in the dzongs and the National Library, and the prayers a visitor hears chanted, are in Choekey. Both Choekey and Dzongkha are written in the Tibetan script, in two forms: the upright, headed Uchen used for printing, and the flowing cursive Joyig used for handwriting — a calligraphy of real beauty, taught among the thirteen traditional arts. The second is English, the medium of instruction in every Bhutanese school since the modernising reforms of the 1960s, and now the shared language of government, business, and higher learning. It is the great practical gift to the visitor: Bhutanese are widely fluent in English, signage is bilingual throughout, and a traveller can move across the whole country, understood and understanding, in English alone.
No Dzongkha is needed to travel in Bhutan — English carries a visitor everywhere — but a few words, offered with a smile, are warmly received and quietly close a little distance. The everyday greeting is Kuzu zangpo la — hello, and how are you — the 'la' at the end the honorific particle that Bhutanese add to soften and dignify their speech, much as one might add 'sir' or 'madam'. Thank you is Kadrin chhe la. Delicious, after a meal, is Zhimbey. And the smile that accompanies the attempt matters more than the accent: Bhutanese are gracious about a visitor's first fumbling words, and pleased by the courtesy of the effort. The matched guide, fluent across the local tongues and English alike, is the visitor's bridge into the country's languages, and will happily teach a few more along the way.
Common questions
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